Solar Yurt Calculator

Select your yurt size, season, and appliances — get panel watts, battery Ah, charge controller size, and total system cost for off-grid living.

days
Off-grid solar system for your yurt
600W panels + 657 Ah battery (12V)
Summer daily load1,970 Wh/day
Design load (worst case)1,970 Wh/day
Panels needed3 × 200W panels
Battery bank (12V AGM)657 Ah
Charge controller70A MPPT
Panel weight on roof75 lbs
Est. system cost$3,650
Load breakdown:
LED lights80 Wh/day summer
12V fridge / cooler1,440 Wh/day summer
Phone + laptop charging210 Wh/day summer
Fan / ventilation240 Wh/day summer
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How to Use This Calculator

Select your yurt size and season of use

Start with your yurt diameter — a 16ft yurt (200 sq ft) is a cozy glamping space; a 30ft yurt (707 sq ft) rivals a small house in floor area. Season matters enormously: a summer-only yurt with fans and LED lights uses 500-1,000 Wh/day; a year-round yurt with an electric heater can use 3,000-6,000 Wh/day in winter. The calculator sizes for your worst-case month.

Choose your appliances

Check every appliance you plan to use. The calculator includes realistic daily usage hours for each season — a fan runs 8 hours in summer but 0 in winter; a space heater runs 0 in summer but 4+ hours in winter. If you're heating with wood or propane instead of electric, uncheck the space heater — that single decision often cuts the required system size by 60%.

Set your autonomy days

Autonomy days — how many consecutive cloudy days your battery can cover without solar input. In the sunny Southwest, 2 days is sufficient. In the Pacific Northwest or for winter use in cloudy climates, 4-5 days provides safety margin. More autonomy = more battery capacity = higher cost. The sweet spot for most off-grid applications is 3 days.

The Formula

Daily Wh = Sum of (Appliance Watts × Daily Hours) Design Load = max(Summer Wh, Winter Wh) for year-round Panel Watts = Design Daily Wh ÷ Peak Sun Hours ÷ 0.80 Battery Ah = Design Daily Wh × Autonomy Days ÷ (12V × 0.50 DoD) Charge Controller Amps = Panel Watts ÷ 12V × 1.25 safety factor Total Cost = (Panel Watts × $1.50) + (Battery Ah × $3.50) + $450

The 0.50 depth of discharge (DoD) is used for AGM lead-acid batteries — cycling deeper degrades them rapidly. If you use LiFePO4 lithium batteries (more expensive but longer-lived), change DoD to 0.80, which reduces battery size by 37.5%. Lithium batteries cost 2-3× more per Ah but last 3-5× longer, making them cost-competitive over 10 years.

Example

Retreat yurt — 3-season 20ft yurt in the Mid-Atlantic

A couple uses their 20ft yurt for weekend retreats from April through October. They want LED lights, a 12V fridge, phone and laptop charging, a fan, and a small water pump.

Yurt size20ft diameter (314 sq ft)
Season3-season (Apr-Oct)
LocationMid-Atlantic (4.5 PSH)
Autonomy3 days

Result

Daily load~1,050 Wh/day
Panels needed2 × 200W = 400W total
Battery (12V)175 Ah AGM
Charge controller30A MPPT
Est. system cost~$1,850

A compact 400W system with a 175Ah battery handles 3 days without sun and all creature comforts except heat. The two 200W panels weigh about 50 lbs total — well within yurt roof capacity. For under $2,000, the couple achieves full off-grid capability for an 8-month season.

FAQ

Yes, but heating is the challenge. For lights, fridge, devices, and a water pump, a 400-600W solar system with 200-300Ah of batteries handles year-round use easily. Electric space heating is the problem: even a modest 500W heater running 4 hours/day adds 2,000 Wh to your daily load — doubling the required solar and battery. Most successful year-round yurt dwellers use a wood stove or propane heater as primary heat (which solar doesn't need to support) while solar handles all electrical loads. This keeps the solar system affordable ($1,500-3,000) while the stove provides comfortable heat.
Yurt roof panels are possible but not ideal. The fabric roof has load limits (typically 20-30 lbs per rafter/cable), curved geometry makes mounting difficult, and panels face different orientations. Better options: (1) Ground mount — simple pole or tilt-frame mount nearby, can be optimally angled for maximum production. (2) Adjacent structure — mount on a nearby pergola, shed, or deck. (3) Trellis/pergola — build a dedicated solar structure near the yurt that also provides shade. Ground-mounted arrays next to the yurt also allow easier access for cleaning and maintenance.
AGM lead-acid batteries cost $1-2/Ah and last 300-500 deep cycles (3-5 years with daily use). LiFePO4 lithium batteries cost $3-6/Ah but last 2,000-5,000 cycles (10-15+ years). For occasional use (summer-only glamping), AGM is fine — lower upfront cost, and a 200Ah AGM bank lasts many seasons with occasional weekend use. For year-round or frequent use, LiFePO4 is cheaper long-term. LiFePO4 also allows 80% depth of discharge vs. 50% for AGM, so you need 37% less Ah capacity — partially offsetting the higher per-Ah cost.
A 12V off-grid system has four components: (1) Solar panels (12V or wired to 12V input) generate DC electricity during daylight. (2) MPPT charge controller regulates charging voltage to safely charge the battery bank without overcharging. (3) Battery bank (12V AGM or LiFePO4) stores energy for nighttime and cloudy days. (4) Inverter (optional) converts 12V DC to 120V AC for standard appliances. A 12V fridge, LED lights, and phone charging can run directly on 12V without an inverter, maximizing efficiency. Add an inverter only if you need to run AC appliances.
A 16ft summer glamping yurt with LED lights, a 12V cooler, phone charging, and a fan uses approximately 500-700 Wh/day. In the Southwest (5.5+ PSH), a single 200W panel produces 1,100 Wh/day — more than enough. In the Northeast (4.0 PSH), two 200W panels are recommended. Pair with a 100-150Ah AGM battery for 2-3 days of autonomy. Total cost: $800-1,400 depending on battery choice. This is one of the most cost-effective off-grid solar applications — light loads, good summer sun, and minimal complexity.

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